Simon's Recommendations
Clinging to the side of a steep hill in the Tramuntana mountain range on the north-west coast of Majorca is the breathtakingly beautiful village of Deià. Once a sleepy, forgotten backwater and a hang-out for hippies, it is now home to a vibrant arts community, and those who visit for a week can end up staying a lifetime.
It's just a 30-minute drive from the airport in Palma, but feels a world away from the crowds and the chaos. Surrounded by orange, lemon and olive groves, the village is impossibly picturesque and its narrow alleys of stone houses curl down a lush valley to a shingle beach where the water is clear and warm. It's the village that time forgot. Just a one minute walk away from Sa Llupia is the exclusive La Residencia, the best hotel in Majorca and, in my opinion, arguably best in all of Europe. Carved out of two 16th and 17th-century manor houses, and set against the dramatic backdrop of the mountains, the hotel shares Sa Llupia's panoramic views over the village. Guests for a fee can make use of the hotels excellent spa and tennis facilities.
Deià attracts its fair share of celebs – Michael Douglas, Catherine Zeta Jones, Bob Geldof and Andrew Lloyd Webber all have properties in the village and surrounding area. Frequent visitors include Richard Branson, Tom Hanks, Sting, Bruce Springsteen and Kate Moss. But while Deià oozes exclusivity, it's also friendly and low-key. Everyone dresses down and no-one bats an eyelid at the gathering of famous faces around the village restaurants and shops (who are generally far more preoccupied with contemplating or composing, than flirting with the likes of OK! or Hello! magazine).
I'm a real foodie and for me Deià is gastronomic heaven. In fact, speak to anyone who's been to Deià and they'll tell you the food is as good as anywhere in mainland Europe, better than the best that Barcelona or the South of France has to offer.
While La Residencia's restaurant, El Olivio, offers gracious fine-dining, Deià itself boasts a host of excellent restaurants, and I'd highly recommend the Michelin-starred Es Raco d'es Teix - otherwise known as Josef's. El Olivio's renowned German chef, Josef Sauerschell, left La Residencia to set up the place around six years ago, and now does the cooking while his wife is in charge of front of house. The restaurant is small and booking is essential in high season - especially if you want one of the highly sought-after seats on the terrace to soak up the incredible views over the mountains and village. The food is stunning without being fussy. The fish is fresh from the market in neighbouring Soller; the octopus is incredible, the lobster ravioli sensational, and Andrew Lloyd Webber dubs the prawns ‘the best in the world'.
Another of my favourites is Sebastian's, where the specialities change every day, but include such delicacies as sea bass with truffled cucumber spaghetti, and breast of guinea fowl. The place is absolutely lovely. If you want to work off your meal, then take a stroll up the hill to marvel at the glorious views and atmospheric 15th century church that sits at the top of the village.
Despite the influx of tourists, Deià has not been overdeveloped; there's no high-rise in sight, and still quite a “hippy” feel to the place when you wander through the narrow streets. One of the village's most famous residents was the poet and novelist Robert Graves, who wrote most of his important works in these beautiful surrounds. He is now buried in the church at the top of the hill, and his family opened his villa as a museum in 2006. A great way to find out more about him and his fellow bohemians is by taking the Deià artists' tour. With a little more time to spare, spend a day exploring the north-west of Majorca, around Deià, Soller and Port de Soller. This is the best area for walking and the road from Deià to Soller - a pretty mountain trail with exquisite sea views, past orange and lemon trees and herds of goats - will take you a couple of hours.
Alternatively, hop on a bike to explore this rural part of Majorca. When you get to Soller, enjoy a fresh orange juice in one of the main square's pavement cafes and then reward yourself with a delicious seafood lunch in one of the fish restaurants. This side of Majorca, with its stunning scenery and beautiful villages may surprise you if, in the past, you've only ever seen the island's crowded beach resorts. But once you've arrived in Deià, kicked off your shoes by the pool, done a few long walks, enjoyed a spa treatment or two, and eaten some fantastic food, it won't be long before you're planning your return trip to Majorca.
Recommendations
Josef's - Es Raco d'es Teix: 34 971 639 501
Sebastian's: 34 971 639 417




